Ever seen a shaggy-dog play? That's a fair description of Staff Meal, Abe Koogler's shape-shifter of a comedy now at Playwrights Horizons. His purpose is hard to pin down, if not impossible. But surely he's writing about the restaurant as a bastion of refuge, a peaceful retreat in an increasingly chaotic and unpredictable universe. Staff Meal has its warm and funny moments. And a lot of unintelligibility surrounding …
