Helen Hayes Theater, New York The star is astonishing in Branden Jacobs-Jenkins's funny yet moving Broadway debut about a complicated family reunion If you grew up with it, there's something inherently nostalgic about the sound of cicadas. The incessant chorus, once every 17 years, conjures something primordial, unsettling, country, past. Appropriate, the excellent production of Branden Jacobs-Jenkins's play at the H…