Shunned by hipsters, adored by local Scots, they're the fringe's biggest show. How did this retro cocktail of cheesy euphoria become such a phenomenon? Friday night in Edinburgh and a troupe of transgender Thai showgirls and their kilted male friends " plus Jamie John, a self-described gay dwarf " are onstage in highland regalia swaying to The Bonnie Banks o' Loch Lomond, the words of which are being enthusiastically…